Revving Up Innovation: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch

The collaboration between Chopard and Zagato is nothing short of audacious. With its roots in automotive artistry dating back to 1919, Zagato stands out as one of Italy’s most daring coachbuilders. Their journey into the automotive realm began in 1928 when a Zagato-bodied Alfa Romeo 1750 took the win at the iconic Mille Miglia. The curves and flowing silhouettes of Zagato designs reflect Ugo Zagato’s background in aviation, focusing on lightweight materials and aerodynamic efficiency. Each Zagato vehicle is not just about function; it’s a seamless blend of art and engineering. So, does the Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept watch embody this same philosophy of merging form with function?

A Legacy of Collaboration

The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept marks the third chapter in a collaborative story that began in 2013, followed by a second collaboration in 2019. Both earlier iterations featured Mille Miglia chronographs with subtle hints of Zagato’s signature style. However, the Lab One Concept takes a radical departure from its predecessors with a design that’s as daring as it is unique. Much like the strikingly designed cars from Zagato, this watch emphasizes lightweight construction, making it the lightest Chopard timepiece ever, tipping the scales at just 43.2 grams inclusive of the strap. The watch itself weighs a mere 36.5 grams, placing it in a rare category among Swiss watches. With an eye-watering price tag of CHF 130,000 and a limited run of just 19 pieces available exclusively through Chopard, this watch is truly a collector’s gem.

The Lancia Flaminia Sport Zagato

Celebrating Zagato’s Design Legacy

Before diving deeper into the Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept watch, let’s take a moment to appreciate both an old classic and a modern marvel from Zagato’s design portfolio. Their distinctive style, characterized by voluptuous lines and a stunning approach to aerodynamics, is surely an acquired taste. I personally admire how their designs convey a sense of presence while maintaining elegance with continuous curves. Take, for example, the #346 Lancia Flaminia Sport Zagato, which competed in the 1962 Trieste-Opicina race, capturing hearts with its flowing design.

Introducing the Capricorn 01 Zagato

Then we have the 2025 Capricorn 01 Zagato. A true performance machine, this hypercar is limited to just 19 units and boasts a formidable 5.2-liter supercharged Ford V8 engine generating 887–900 hp. Its impressive dry weight of under 1,200 kg (about 2,645 lbs) promises exhilarating acceleration and dynamic handling, all while remaining true to Ugo Zagato’s visionary approach.

The Innovative Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch

While the Capricorn 01 employs carbon fiber for weight savings, the Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept showcases ceramicized titanium. This watch is a celebration of Chopard’s passion for the automotive world. Its tubular construction is not just visually striking; it mirrors some of the design cues seen in concept cars while meticulously honoring the principles of fine watchmaking. This masterpiece comes to life through the collaborative efforts of car collector and Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the talented Chopard design team, Andrea Michele Zagato, and Norihiko Harada.

Revolutionary Technology: Absorption and Rigidity

The beating heart of the Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept is the L.U.C 04.04-L movement. This COSC-certified chronometer features bridges and a mainspring crafted from the same avant-garde ceramicized titanium. Designed specifically for this model, the movement incorporates a unique shock-absorbing system using silent blocks that minimize vibrational energy and mechanical shocks. The design is reminiscent of cutting-edge automotive engineering, where performance and durability are paramount. Four structural lever arms secure the movement within the case, ensuring that it remains precisely aligned and well-protected against external impacts.

At the center lies a 60-second tourbillon with a small seconds feature, utilizing a specially designed, free-sprung Variner (variable-inertia) balance wheel. Its low weight contributes to the watch’s incredible lightness and performance precision, consistent with both high-performance racing and Zagato’s design ethos.

The Signature Z-Look

The architecture of the movement is based on a tubular spaceframe, reminiscent of motorsport chassis designs that optimize stiffness while reducing mass. This innovative approach marks Chopard’s first use of racing-derived structural principles in watchmaking. Open tubular loops replace traditional lugs while incorporating a pivot system allowing around ±45 degrees of angular travel, ensuring that the 42 × 11.15mm case comfortably fits wrists of all shapes and sizes.

The watch design incorporates numerous automotive elements. For instance, the crown reflects automotive differential gearing and features an engraved steering wheel motif akin to Chopard’s Classic Racing line. The movement’s mainplate, which doubles as the dial, showcases Zagato’s distinct “Z” motif with chamfered surfaces finished in polished rhodium. The Chopard and Zagato logos are artfully applied in rhodium plating, complementing the watch’s overall aesthetic, while a box-type sapphire crystal ensures optimal legibility. The case back mirrors this intricate design, providing an aesthetic view of the movement inside.

So, what are your thoughts? Does the Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept resonate with your sensibilities? Do you believe that the distinctive Zagato ethos and design principles enhance a Chopard watch? One thing is certain: this timepiece will provoke conversation just as quickly as the Capricorn 01 Zagato accelerates from 0 to 60 mph in 2.9 seconds.

Watch Specifications