As a member of the Fratello team for over five years, it’s a bit surprising to many that it took me this long to add an Omega Speedmaster to my collection. With Fratello’s strong association with this legendary watch, not owning one felt almost sacrilegious. But the truth is simpler. I always knew I would own a Speedmaster someday; I just never knew which model I would choose.

The vast variety of the Omega Speedmaster can be both a blessing and a curse. From countless references and dial variations to limited editions and unique models—there’s a Speedmaster for every taste. Whether vintage, neo-vintage, or modern, each watch has its own character. I was determined not to rush into purchasing an obvious choice, especially one that I knew would be common at watch meet-ups.

Setting Some Ground Rules

In my quest to find the perfect Speedmaster, I established some basic criteria: I wanted a manual-wind watch in new or excellent condition. This decision helped narrow down my options significantly, which was a relief amidst such an overwhelming selection.

Image: The Watch Club

Almost There: The Contenders

There were several contenders that nearly made the cut. For example, I’ve always had a soft spot for the Speedmaster ’57 Trilogy with Broad Arrow hands. It encompasses much of what I love about the Speedmaster’s history, but for some reason, it never felt like the one. Perhaps it came down to the choice between the 1861 and the newer 3861 movement.

Then there was the First Omega in Space, which came close to winning my heart. I adore that blue-gray dial, and I genuinely thought it could be the one—until a friend’s friend bought one, and suddenly I lost interest. I know it sounds petty, but I didn’t want the same watch as someone close to me. I bet many collectors can relate to this sentiment, even if we don’t always express it.

The white-dial Speedmaster Professional also piqued my interest. While it’s a fantastic watch, the red “Speedmaster” text was a deal-breaker for me. It’s incredible how a single line of text can transform the entire feel of a watch on the wrist. For some, that detail is the defining feature. For me, it just never resonated.

As wearable as it is handsome

Choosing the Perfect Speedy — The Calibre 321

The turning point in my journey came during the Speedy Tuesday event in Hong Kong, where Omega unveiled the new “Reverse Panda” models. While impressive, they didn’t quite resonate with me. However, during a pre-dinner cocktail hour, I began chatting with a collector who was wearing the Speedmaster Calibre 321.

This watch was no stranger to me; RJ has one and has often shared his admiration for it. After trying it on multiple times, I always found it felt just right on my wrist. The only issue was its price, which had kept it at arm’s length. But when I saw it again at the event and tried it on, everything clicked. This wasn’t just a watch I liked; it was *the* Speedmaster for me—I had to own the Calibre 321.

Making the Dream a Reality

Upon returning to the UK after a lengthy 22-hour journey, I started my search almost immediately. Buying new wasn’t feasible for my budget, but after a bit of patience, I found a pre-owned Calibre 321 in excellent condition at Swiss Horology in London. It came with the full set at a reasonable price. A big shout-out to Dia at Swiss Horology for making this happen and turning it around in just 48 hours!

To fund this purchase, I part-exchanged my Rolex Explorer II. Ironically, this was the same watch I had bought on the way home from a Speedy Tuesday event back in 2022. It feels like my watch journey has come full circle.

A large part of the allure — the Omega 321 movement

Why the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Works for Me

I won’t go into technical specifications—most of you likely know those inside and out. What matters more is why this particular Speedmaster resonates with me in my daily life. As RJ noted in his original article six years ago, the Calibre 321 isn’t for Moonwatch purists. It’s not a direct reissue of any prior model, nor is it a Moonwatch. Instead, it uniquely blends features and design elements that resonate with me.

Features like the sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel are especially appealing to me; they suit my active lifestyle much better than Hesalite and aluminum alternatives. They’re tougher, more forgiving, and maintain a cleaner appearance over time. Moreover, I’ve always preferred straight-lug cases, and I appreciate the cleaner dial without the word “Professional” printed on it. Lastly, the stunning caliber 321 movement isn’t just historically significant; it’s also a visual masterpiece that adds allure every time I remove the watch.

Lastly, the bracelet and clasp that come with it deserve special mention. It’s one of the best that Omega produces today. Yes, I’m somewhat biased now, but I firmly believe that. It’s comfortable, beautifully finished, and seamlessly integrated, enhancing the overall experience. While this may not be the perfect Speedmaster for everyone, it certainly feels like the perfect Speedmaster for me, and that’s what truly counts.

Embracing Life with the Speedmaster Calibre 321

Wearing the Calibre 321 feels like being in a honeymoon phase. What surprised me even more is how naturally it has integrated into my collection. When purchasing a new watch, we often forget to consider not just how much we love it in isolation, but also whether it fits within the context of our existing collection. Does it earn its place? Does it make sense?

In this case, the answer has been a resounding “yes.” I’ve never once second-guessed my decision. There’s no hint of regret creeping in as excitement subsides; I’m confident I made the right choice. This watch feels like it was always destined to be mine, and that certainty makes all the difference.

Taking the Scenic Route

Looking back at my previous major purchase, the Hermès H08, it’s evident that like the Speedmaster journey, this was a decision that took years of contemplation. I didn’t rush; I waited, tried it on, and allowed the idea of ownership to settle. When the excitement didn’t diminish, I finally made the purchase.

That watch has since become a staple in my collection, one I wear regularly. Reflecting on that experience has influenced my approach to watch collecting, reinforcing the idea that patience pays off.

In retrospect, I realize I always knew which Speedmaster I wanted. The lengthy search was less about finding the right model and more about convincing myself that an alternative might suffice. If I had settled for one of those near misses, I doubt I would have enjoyed it as much. The satisfaction of finally owning the watch I genuinely desire, rather than one I settled for, is the most rewarding lesson I’ve learned. My advice to anyone reading this? Take your time, and when the moment arrives, invest in the watch you truly want. If that happens to be the Speedmaster Calibre 321, I wholeheartedly recommend it.

For more technical details, you can read “What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special” by RJ here.