Introducing the Revamped Longines Hydroconquest: A Modern Dive Watch Classic
The Longines Hydroconquest has carved out a niche as a beloved dive watch since its debut in 2007. Initially available in both automatic and quartz movements, it has offered enthusiasts a taste of serious diving capabilities from a well-respected heritage brand without breaking the bank. Over the years, the Hydroconquest has undergone significant makeovers, notably in 2018 and again in 2023. The latest update, featuring the GMT model, marks another step in the evolution of this iconic dive watch, but now the classic time-and-date version is back, and it’s better than ever.
I had the opportunity to try out the new Longines Hydroconquest in both 39mm and 42mm sizes. A total of six striking colorways have been introduced to the standard collection. I tested the 39mm model with a sleek dark blue dial and the 42mm version with a beautiful frosted blue sunray dial. Let’s dive deeper!
Specifications of the New Longines Hydroconquest
The new Longines Hydroconquest boasts a robust stainless steel case with a screw-in case back and a secure screw-down crown. The watch is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and features a glossy ceramic bezel insert. The larger 42mm model has dimensions of 42mm in diameter, 51.2mm in length, 11.7mm in thickness, and a 21mm lug spacing. In contrast, the petite version measures 39mm × 48.1mm × 11.7mm and accommodates a 20mm-wide bracelet. Both models carry a respectable water resistance rating of 300m.
At the heart of the Hydroconquest lies the exclusive Longines automatic caliber L888.5, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve and operates at 25,200 vibrations per hour. Thanks to its silicon hairspring, the movement shows impressive resistance to magnetic fields, meeting the ISO 764 standard. This updated version of the caliber features a date indicator conveniently placed at the 3 o’clock mark on the dial.
The latest Hydroconquest comes in several striking options: blue, black, or green on stainless steel H-link bracelets; or a chic Milanese bracelet featuring black-and-blue, frosted blue sunray, or slate-gray versions—a first for the series. Each bracelet allows for smooth micro-adjustments of about 5mm. With six color and bracelet combinations available in both sizes, the total expands to 12 standard-production references. Plus, there are two exclusive versions featuring the sunray blue dial paired with a blue bezel and H-link bracelet for boutique and e-commerce purchases.
The 39mm model on my 18cm wrist
Experiencing the New Longines Hydroconquest Models
Regardless of the size you choose, be prepared for these watches to wear larger than their specified measurements. The slight overhang of the bezel gives the impression that they could easily be labeled as 40mm and 43mm models instead of 39mm and 42mm. Combined with the sturdy case design, this results in a pair of bold dive watches that command attention. This aesthetic complements their sporty styling perfectly.
The 42mm model on my 18cm wrist
For my wrist size of 18cm, the 39mm model is the clear favorite. As someone who appreciates vintage and smaller watches, I find the 39mm Hydroconquest to be more compact and focused in real life. The 42mm version, on the other hand, appears larger, especially with the negative space on the dial. Ultimately, I recommend trying on both sizes to see which fits your wrist and style best.
Beyond the size considerations, these are unapologetically modern sports watches. The bold markings on the insert, pronounced bezel teeth, prominent crown guards, lustrous surfaces, and substantial lugs contribute to a watch that makes a genuine statement. If you’re after a versatile, elegantly classic dive watch, consider the more retro Longines Legend Diver. However, if you desire a striking, contemporary sports watch, the Hydroconquest is an excellent choice.
A Fresh Dial Design
Looking at the Longines Hydroconquest’s dials from the first generation to today, it’s clear that the design has incrementally evolved. The new models have shifted from the original sunray finishes to solid, glossy surfaces—except for the frosted blue version. The iconic 6, 9, and 12 numerals have vanished in the 2023 update, simplifying the overall design.
Instead of a numeral at the 12 o’clock position, there’s now a diving-triangle marker, and the dot markers at 6 and 9 have been replaced with applied hash marks. Yet, the numerals at 6 and 9 now reside as dot markers, giving a new twist to the classic look.
While I appreciate most of these changes, the dot markers feel somewhat out of place, particularly the one at 9 o’clock, which seems slightly unbalanced next to the rectangular date window at 3. It’s a minor critique, but it does stand out.
Quality Build and Finishing
The Longines Hydroconquest exudes solidity and craftsmanship. The bezel action is smooth and tactile, showing just the right amount of resistance and aligning perfectly. Operating the crown feels stable and effortless—truly a delight.
The bracelet wraps around the wrist comfortably, thanks to the smooth female end links. While quick-release pins aren’t available, the micro-adjustment feature is excellent, allowing precise sizing. The Milanese mesh bracelet stands out with its dense weaving and tapering—though some might find the removable links a bit awkward. It’s a small but notable design decision.
The watch’s overall finishing reflects its price point of €2,200 for the H-Link bracelet and €2,300 for the Milanese option. While it doesn’t exhibit the deep, tactile brushing found on the Spirit line, it certainly meets expectations.
Final Thoughts on the Third-Generation Longines Hydroconquest
The new Longines Hydroconquest is a subtle yet effective update to an already impressive dive watch. Positioned at the entry level of heritage-brand divers, the latest Hydroconquest packs a significant punch for its price. It successfully navigates the fine line between classic design elements and originality.
Overall, I wholeheartedly recommend the Longines Hydroconquest to anyone on the hunt for a bold, modern dive watch from a renowned watchmaker. While it may not reinvent the wheel with groundbreaking design features, it delivers a classic dive watch feel in a sleek, modern package. I have no doubt this appealing timepiece will attract many new fans of the Longines brand.
What are your thoughts on the new Longines Hydroconquest? Feel free to share in the comments below!