Discover Luxury Without the Hefty Price Tag: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Enter the exquisite world of luxury watches without breaking the bank! While the Poinçon de Genève-certified Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel isn’t exactly a budget-friendly option, it is certainly your gateway to the iconic Roger Dubuis brand. With a sleek design featuring a 40 x 11.25mm steel case, this timepiece captures the essence of high horology. The retrograde day and date indicators offer a nod to historical watchmaking, while the intricate finishes on the movement elevate the overall horological experience. My hands-on time with this piece at Watches and Wonders left me both impressed and contemplative.

Roger Dubuis: A Unique Watchmaker Since 1995

Since its inception in 1995, Roger Dubuis has carved out a niche market. With a distinct style, premium pricing, and limited supply, each creation remains a rarity. Although this exclusivity remains, the brand has pivoted towards a more subdued exuberance, giving rise to what they term “Hyper Horology.” A testament to this shift was the introduction of last year’s historically inspired Hommage La Placide, featuring a stunning 38mm rose gold case with a deep blue mother-of-pearl dial. Another notable release is the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in pink gold, which showcased a more refined 40 x 11.25mm case, perfect for slipping under a shirt cuff. Now, they have introduced a steel version that amplifies the appeal.

Experience the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel

Previously, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in rose gold was exquisite yet arguably too formal for everyday wear. While Roger Dubuis offers sporty designs like the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, these are typically both large and pricey. The more wearable 42mm Excalibur Monotourbillon Titanium and Excalibur Monobalancier Titanium come at a steeper price. However, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel (ref. DBEX1209) is priced at €36,900 / US$43,900. While not exactly budget-friendly, it does provide a more accessible entry point to the Roger Dubuis brand.

The Bracelet: A Winning Feature

Let’s highlight the bracelet first—an essential design aspect that often raises questions—particularly the triple lugs. My fondness for the titanium versions of the Excalibur Tourbillon and Monobalancier stemmed from the comfort and aesthetic appeal of their multilink bracelets, which seamlessly integrate with the triple lugs.

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel showcases a relatively compact case, complemented by sharp architectural details and polished, shot-blasted, and satin-brushed finishes. The notched bezel and chunky crown guards are features you’d expect from an Excalibur. This watch’s finely detailed and meticulously finished steel bracelet—which shines brighter than its titanium counterpart—adds a sporty essence to the day-date watch.

The Alluring “Cosmic Blue” Dial

This time, you won’t find any mother-of-pearl accents. Instead, the dial is adorned with a hue that Roger Dubuis calls “Cosmic Blue,” paired with elegant silver accents. The dial features concentric-engraved flanges, which house applied rhodium-plated hour markers fitted with white Super-LumiNova. The flange cleverly conceals the pivoting points of the retrograde hands while revealing some fascinating components of the calendar. The openings provide visual intrigue while showcasing the high finishing quality, essential for its Poinçon de Genève certification.

Large crescent-shaped scales indicate the day and date, each matched with bold retrograde hands resembling open-worked swords. The hour and minute hands are crafted from white gold, adding a fierce yet elegant touch to the dial.

Sporty touches come from red accents placed on the retrograde scales and the hands. The dial reads “Biretrograde Calendar” to emphasize its serious horological capabilities, while the Poinçon de Genève shield stands proud.

Unveiling the 244-Component Caliber RD840

Inside the steel Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, you’ll find the same remarkable movement as its rose gold predecessor: the 4Hz caliber RD840. This automatic movement is thoroughly finished, right down to parts you won’t ever see. With 244 components and 14 finishing techniques, Roger Dubuis has left no stone unturned.

The openworked rotor with a pink gold weight winds the mainspring, providing an impressive 60 hours of autonomy when fully wound. The moment you glance through the dial or the sapphire display case back, you’ll be thoroughly satisfied.

Wearing the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Wearing the 40mm Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is a delight. Its moderate proportions and well-suited multilink bracelet make it incredibly comfortable. The “Cosmic Blue” hue is reminiscent of both dark and electric blue, offering a depth that enhances the brushed and polished steel case’s sporty aesthetic.

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar represents Roger Dubuis’s evolution—a shift towards more reasonably sized watches that remain strongly connected to their heritage. One can only hope for future releases like a 40mm Monobalancier in steel or a contemporary chronograph version of the Hommage. Exciting times lie ahead!

What are your thoughts on the 40mm steel Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar? Feel free to share in the comments section below!

Watch Specifications