Cleguer Inspiration One: A Bold Debut in Luxury Watchmaking
Even though the name “Cleguer” might be new to watch enthusiasts, founder Mathieu Cleguer is no stranger to the world of horology. Hailing from Brittany, France, this passionate watchmaker has honed his skills at various prestigious independent brands, working diligently on technical teams. Today, he’s ready to take flight with his inaugural creation: the Cleguer Inspiration One.
This debut is nothing short of a statement. Not many watchmakers launch with a proprietary escapement, and there’s a lot to explore in this remarkable piece, so let’s dive in!
The Journey of Mathieu Cleguer
Mathieu Cleguer initially aimed for a career in the automotive sector. However, life had other plans. At the 2006 Paris Motor Show, he was captivated by a watch brand’s booth and decided to switch gears to pursue a technical career in watchmaking. Thank goodness he did!
Cleguer attended HE-ARC in Neuchâtel, where he immersed himself in micro-mechanics. He spent years gaining invaluable experience at various independent watch brands, becoming skilled in the technical aspects of watchmaking. Now, with the Inspiration One, he’s ready to make his mark.
Redefining Watchmaking Philosophy
In a world brimming with watch brands, what sets Cleguer apart? What unique value does he bring to the table? A few key points stand out.
First, visitors to the brand’s website will notice the recurring theme of “architecture.” While not everyone loves this term, it fits perfectly here. Cleguer describes it as “Engineering as a creative act,” emphasizing the alignment of mechanical choices with a cohesive design philosophy. He insists that “Each component is considered not only for its function but also for its role in the larger mechanical composition.”
While many independent brands either focus on design or technical prowess, Cleguer aims to synthesize both. A knowledgeable technical watchmaker, he tells a story through the mechanics of his creations, evident in the Inspiration One. At first glance, the dial appears to be a standard openworked haute horlogerie design, but its intricacies reveal a level of consideration and refinement.
The Cleguer Inspiration One: A Closer Look
Let’s examine the Cleguer Inspiration One more closely. The initial version boasts a 38.5mm by 12mm titanium case. Limited to just 12 pieces, this version is already sold out. In total, Cleguer will produce 80 pieces across five metals, with 20 unique variants. The next release will be a gold version priced at CHF 95,300.
The standout feature is the innovative “innate escapement.” This design merges the double-wheel layout of a natural escapement with the self-starting capabilities and tangential action of a Fasoldt escapement. The result? A friction-free, self-starting escapement. The oversized balance wheel brilliantly complements the exquisite grand feu enameled dial. Additionally, the twin wheels are visible through apertures in the mainplate and display case back. This hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve capped at 36 hours for consistent torque. A discreet power reserve indicator is elegantly placed at 11 o’clock.
Visual hierarchy plays a significant role in the Inspiration One. The design allows the eye to glide from the enameled dial to the barrel and finally to the escapement below. The gracefully curved top plate enhances this visual flow. Very clever, Cleguer!
Detailing the Inspiration One
At first glance, one might think the dial lacks branding. However, the Cleguer name discreetly appears as an engraving on the rehaut. Notably, Mathieu honors his Breton heritage with an icon at the 12 o’clock marker.
The Inspiration One showcases a variety of high-end finishing techniques. From the grand feu dial to media-blasted plates, Geneva striping, and soleilage, every aspect resonates with classical watchmaking. Additionally, the anglage features sharp internal angles.
These elements contrast beautifully with the watch’s unique features, including purple accents on the dial and the split top surface of the lugs. I particularly admire the ultra-fine seconds track positioned just beneath the crystal. This clever placement allows the slender seconds hand to extend beyond the movement, creating a sense of separation that feels special—something the Cleguer Inspiration One embodies beautifully.
Final Thoughts on the Cleguer Inspiration One
Mathieu Cleguer has set a high bar with this solo debut. Though I have yet to handle the Inspiration One personally, it’s clear that he’s off to an impressive start. Initially, my first glance led me to think, “Ah, just another indie watch that looks like many others.” However, upon closer examination, it becomes evident that Cleguer stands apart in his attention to detail.
For Cleguer, one challenge ahead is navigating our fast-paced world. With ultra-short attention spans dominating, understanding his intricate philosophy, watchmaking talent, and unique design requires a bit more engagement than the bite-sized content we’re so used to. I sincerely hope he finds a way to slow down the conversation so that people can appreciate the depth of his approach.
In conclusion, the Cleguer Inspiration One has left me thoroughly impressed, and I’m eager to get up close and personal with it. Witnessing a one-man operation produce such a refined piece on his debut is commendable. Additionally, Cleguer’s willingness to take risks and pour his passion into this ambitious project is nothing short of inspiring. I’m cheering him on!
What are your thoughts on the Cleguer Inspiration One? Let us know in the comments below!