The Chic Revolution: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse in Olive Green
So, what do you wear when the dress code is “casual chic”? My mind immediately flashes back to an eggplant-colored suit I once spotted at a lavish watch launch event—a combination that didn’t exactly scream style, especially when paired with white sneakers. Would a suave, slim dress watch have salvaged that outfit? Possibly, but not if it were the elusive Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5738G-001 adorned with a sunburst olive-green strap. That would only amplify the “vegetable chic” vibe! Nevertheless, green dials are trending, slowly but surely making their way into the world of dress watches. And now, the most stylish dress watch of them all has arrived in a chic green. Is this the ultimate version? Or does the smaller ref. 3738/100G-014 steal the spotlight?
The Allure of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5738G-001
The launch of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5738G-001 “Jumbo” and its smaller counterpart wasn’t exactly the highlight of Watches and Wonders 2026. But let me tell you, it caught my attention for a reason: that sunburst olive-green dial, beautifully complemented by a matching shiny green calfskin strap featuring contrasting cream stitching. While 2026 marks the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus, it also seems to be the year of contrasting stitching at Patek Philippe. Almost every new release this year showcases this design feature, whether it’s sporty, dressy, or complicated. Yet, is there such a thing as overdoing it? I believe there is, especially when it comes to contrasting stitching on a Golden Ellipse.
The design of the Golden Ellipse, which debuted in 1968, is based on the “golden section,” a divine proportion with a ratio of 1:1.6181… The elliptical case, merging circular and rectangular shapes, radiates elegance. The Golden Ellipse saw immense popularity in the 1970s and ’80s; by the late 1970s, it was available in 65 variations, featuring different colored dials and bracelet options—everything from braided leather to chain-link designs.
This collection wasn’t just for watch enthusiasts; it included jewelry and haute joaillerie interpretations. The design even inspired a line of luxurious accessories like cufflinks, rings, and lighters. Fun fact: there were also Golden Ellipse pocket watches! The ref. 874, launched in 1976, continued production into the early 1990s, albeit in very limited quantities.
The Dress Watch of Tomorrow
Previously, I penned an article titled “Imagining The Dress Watch Of The Future.” If this olive-green Golden Ellipse had been released earlier, it would have been a perfect fit. However, I still believe it would shine brighter with tonal stitching. The Golden Ellipse serves as both a role model and an inspiration—evident in recent creations like the Serica 1174 Parade and the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage. These pieces evoke the essence of the Golden Ellipse at a fraction of the cost—yet they cannot compare to the real deal. The new ref. 5738G-001 boasts a polished white gold case measuring 34.5 × 39.5 × 5.9mm, claiming its title as the thinnest watch in the Patek collection.
The 18K gold dial shimmers reminiscent of the 1970s, but that olive-green hue gives it a modern twist. Minimalist white gold applied baton-style hour markers and delicate hour and minute hands tell the time. And let’s not forget the strap, which secures with a simple white gold prong buckle—keeping it clean and stylish.
Golden Ellipse ref. 3738/100G-01
Now, let’s talk about the case back—it’s simply all metal. This watch serves more as a style statement or a piece of jewelry rather than showcasing technical horology. So, you won’t get to see the automatic caliber 240, a movement also utilized in the 50th-anniversary Nautilus models. The movement, just 2.53mm thick and operating at 3Hz, features a 22K gold micro-rotor and a Gyromax balance with a silicon Spiromax balance spring. Comprised of 161 parts, it offers a minimum power reserve of 48 hours and proudly carries the Patek Philippe Seal.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 3738/100G-014
Elegance on Your Wrist
Wearing the Golden Ellipse undeniably elevates any outfit. While I might prefer a custom-made green lizard-leather strap, the watch remains an iconic style statement. There’s something undeniably captivating about its slim profile combined with the elegant dial layout. Slipping on a Golden Ellipse instantly makes you feel chic, even if you’re dressing down. However, I believe a touch of elegance is essential when wearing this watch as a sign of respect for this timeless “gentleman” that seems ageless yet perfectly in tune with modern tastes. But remember, great style comes with a price tag: the white gold ref. 5738G-001 retails for €40,500 / US$43,011 / CHF 34,400.
Golden Ellipse ref. 3738/100G-014
So, back to that original question: is the olive-green ref. 5738G-001 the best Golden Ellipse ever made? Personally, I’d hand that honor to the platinum ref. 5738P-001, a watch that pairs beautifully with denim or a sharp pinstripe suit. If you prefer a slightly smaller version, the Green Golden Ellipse 3738/100G-014 offers the same stunning shade and caliber 240, with a case measuring 31.1 × 35.6 × 5.9mm, priced at €38,200 / US$40,511 / CHF 32,400.
What are your thoughts on the olive-green Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5738G-001? Or the ref. 3738/100G-014? Is this the modern interpretation you’ve been waiting for? Do you consider the Golden Ellipse the pinnacle of dress watches? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments!